I am in India and will be for the next 10 weeks
The questions:
Are you there? Are you OK? The basics:
Yes, yes. I'm here. I'm exhausted. I'm safe. I'm hot. Everything is generally fine.
What is India like?
Well, India is a bit like Phoenix, plus the humidity, minus the crime. It's messier, dirtier, and well, India. It's actually safe where I am, because there is a woman who lives near me who is fairly powerful in the government. There are many guards just a street over, because of her. Additionally, the Aashiana Apartments in which I live are guarded and gated. I will send you all an address soon, in the event that you desire to have it. I can also send a phone number. I know the local number, but I'm not certain of the area code. I think its 044-2432-6587. I will include the easier, free way to call me at the end of the email for anyone who is inclined.
India is, of course, strikingly different in food and culture. I can't adequately comment yet.
One of my favorite differences between the states and India is the driving. I love going for car rides. The traffic here is mad. We are redefining bumper to bumper traffic. This is literal. And side to side, everyone is so close, in large, ambiguous lanes. And everyone is out on the roads. Walking, buying, eating, sleeping, living. Everything that moves goes on the freeway and at different speeds all in the same lane that is 2-3 US lanes wide. And there are usually two lanes going opposite directions, but this is not to imply that people follow such guidelines. Oh, no. And people don't wear seatbelts. Many cars don't even have them.
The bathrooms are completely tiled. walls and floor. These are old, stained tiles. And the "showers"... I'll send you a picture once I get my luggage, which has the software for my camcorder/camera in it. This is all within the two apartments that I've been in thus far. I've not visited the public bathrooms yet.
As you may have gathered, my luggage is lost. Somewhere. Which is fine. I have a maid who does my laundry for me daily if I ask her. (This is really good because I only have 2 pairs of underwear! I have the clothes that I purchased the first day I got here, and clothes that I had to keep me WARM on the flight.) My maid is keeping me decent. She also feeds me. She is amazing.
Yesterday was generally a good day. I got my internet hooked up. (yay!) I also had some of my traveler's checks exchanged. For two hundred dollars, I got 8,650 rupees. For anyone who's doing the math: 43.25. I have to ask myself, what on earth would anyone do with one quarter of a rupee? Its not even half a cent! Yesterday, I also had a potential sitar teacher come in to play for me. that was won-der-ful. Oooh. He played an evening raga for probably 15-20 minutes.
Explanation: In Indian music, a raga is a mode of playing, it's kind of like a "key" or a "scale" in Western terms. The raga is the basis for any piece, and it does not change within the piece (keys will change in Western pieces). The raga is usually never played through like a scale, either. There are rules to each raga that determine what ornaments each note gets and which order to play the notes in, depending on what you are doing. This is the basis and the rules from which a musician improvises, in addition to the cyclic tala, which is how time is kept and the beats are organized. This means that the sitar player who came by yesterday was improvising the entire time he was playing. Also a quick note to clarify: Western refers to Western Europe's traditional "art music," not country-western. Hence the capital "W." Ask questions if this doesn't make sense.
I also found out yesterday that Srini (my mentor), Brian (another Miami student), and I will head off in June to see a wedding. I look forward to being able to write you all about that experience. Additionally, Srini will try to get me out to see more of India than just Chennai and Delhi, as I had planned. This is also very good.
How does Kristen feel?
Ok. Generally. I'm tired. Sooo tired. I don't want to socialize or do much of anything and Srini completely booked my first few days with social outings so that I couldn't sleep. It sucked. I also suffered from some considerable paranoia the first day and a half that I was here. This is a side effect of mefloquine, an anti-malarial that I'm taking. I'm also (forgive me) really bored. I can't practice violin because all of my music is in my checked luggage, and I didn't have the internet until about 15 hrs ago last night.
What else is worth commenting on?
The food isn't too spicy. I thought it would be worse, but it's really good. Generally.. There are exceptions to the rule. Okra is a good example. Ask Mendon about his experience with Okra. He can better describe it. I may actually requst that he send me something that I can forward to you. The drinks are great so far. Every morning, I have hot tea (stupid and wonderful). And a hot breakfast. (just stupid). Hot lunches, too. Hot everything as a rule because I can't drink the water here. It's not clean. I have to boil my water, and the milk, for that matter. I also need to make sure that I don't eat any fruits that I'm not peeling myself, and I have to avoid salads.
The appliances here are much different from those at home. The "stove" is really two little gas burners that sit on the countertop, which require a lighter to get going. (No self starts like in the US). The fridge will burn out if I put hot food in it. I have to let everything cool until it's tepid before I can put it in. Some people are probably cringing at the thought of what can start growing with this opportunity. Yum. The other interesting thing about the kitchen and fridge is the bugs. Bugs in the fridge, spiders in the kitchen. Spiders in the bathroom, too. This is probably because there will be the most mosquitos in these places. (great. All-around great). My air conditioner will also burn out if it tries to heat a space bigger than my room. (and if it runs for too long). Close the windows, close the bathroom door, close the bedroom door. The doors don't have knobs, they have handles and bolts. I may send a picture of this as well, as I may not be describing that adequately. The other appliance that is concerning is the hot water heater. I have to turn it on 5 minutes before I shower, but if I leave it on too long, it will explode. I'm not using the hot water heater. This is for two reasons. The aforementioned one, and because the "cold water" here is quite nice. Tepid and enjoyable in the heat. I would really enjoy a shower if I could get one.
There was comment before I left about the smell of India. It smells like heat. Not curry. Although, curry grows everywhere. It's real now, not just some ground spice that we buy in bottles. It also smells like everyone sweats all the time. (stink). It smells like this because all you do in India is sweat. You can rely on it. Which is fine, I sweat in Phoenix, like this, too. It's 30*/86* in the shade, and incredibly humid. For a few more days, it will actually be the hottest it gets this year. :D
I started lessons in Tamil today. Tamil is the language of SE India. I also started to learn an Indian version of Solfeg. Solfeg is the Western "do re mi" scale syllables. The Indian version is more interested in sound (timbre) and rhythm than pitch (which is what the Western system cares about). I will send a .wav or mp3 of it when I get a chance.
Update: My baggage has been found and I will have it by tomorrow. Additionally, I will be reimbursed 3000 rupees for clothes that I purchase. Guess who will be going shopping this afternoon. : ) (It's about $80).
