Accelerated Adolescence

Letters from Gambia

Yesterday (october 9th?), a very weary Mendon got onto an airbus and flew from BWI to Banjul/Yuqum airport.

I know that I'm trying to deal with culture shock, I know that I'm suffering from it, but I can't do anything about it. Mostly, it feels like I've been spending my time trying to realize that I'm actually in africa. It doesn't feel particularly different from the states. True, it does look different and the people are, and look, different from most in the us, but I feel like I'm no further from anyone than I've been before. It seems that all of the advice that people were giving me was, for the most part useless. I know that many people who made the attempt to give me advice are going to be receiving this email, sorry guys. The water is potable. I should have brought all of my money with me, in increments of 100s and not brought travelers cheques. I'm going to lose money on the wiring and translation of dollars to dallasi all over the place for it. There's nothing I can do about it now and the mail system is unreliable enough... well, sending cash through the mail is never a good idea.

I've never been on a plane flight that was as long as the one last night. Sure, I've flown across America and certainly have spent much more time on the plane trips to and from Australia and New Zealand, but the length of the flight last night was almost unedurable. This may sound like the complaint of a homesick child. That's because it is. I've just realized what I've put my foot in. Eight months, I can handle this, it's not a whole lot of time, really. What I think I'm suffering from right now is that I just have very little idea as to what I am going to be doing. Everything is still up in the air as of right now and I'm feely utterly overwhelmed and, to an extent, very alone. I know that everyone here looks me in the eye and understands what I'm saying but true empathy is difficult to come by. This will pass and I will move on.

I got to the airport yesterday and stood in line for the better part of an hour. It was a long line of Gambian expats going home; for most of the time I was the only white person in line and, at times, in the terminal. Just a bit of shock but something that didn't really surprise me or, rather, bewilder me. Fortunately, some Jehovah's witness missionaries who are familiar with the Gambia (may God keep them in his heart, they are the reason that I'm not still at the airport or in a cell) found me and gave me some very useful advice. Likewise they helped me to get through customs at the airport. For the better part of the flight I spent my time realizing how strange it is for me to be leaving and going off to Africa.

In the first moments of being in Africa I learned many useful things: if you are white and confused, don't get on a bus alone in Africa. You will be vulnerable and easily swindled. Second, if you are confused and unsure, numbers are safe. Find numbers and then everyone will assume you know the same things that they do. Likewise, I learned that it is impossible to try and translate an African accent into vernacular english. One must have an interpreter who is familiar with the language/accent. Also, keep windows rolled up that, in the event the car starts moving, you will not get dust and dirt in your eyes. Likewise, what you think is how it never is. I couldn't imagine what Africa is like without being here, and still have no idea, really.

No description is accurate enough, but here is a first shot: It's hot. I got off the plane and walked into a night that was, perhaps, muggier and hotter than any that I encountered all of this summer. I have not stopped sweating since I got here. I was still sweating even after a cold shower. (Water heating here is a lost concept, thankfully, and all I could take was a cold shower.) Customs was pretty easy to get through, for the most part, with the possible exception that I had no idea what anyone was saying and I just smiled my way through. The customs agents decided to open the package that was sent to me by the arrington's daughter. The customs agent, having no knife asked me if I had one. I pulled out my knife from luggage and made polite conversation about the knife. (The agent made a joke about keeping the knife which if I had not spoken up might have come true). I had a polite conversation with the agents, two of which decided to debate the quality of Gambian coffee. I've met about ten people in the Gambia. Only one of them thinks that there is any good coffee available here in Africa.

I met the couple and the other service youth who live here. Helen, the other service youth, will be here until next July. She's three days older than I, meaning that I am now the choremonger. We got in at four am last night (midnight home time) and I tried to crash after a cold shower. I really, desperately, needed to wash my hair. I have short hair, it's still wet, I wet it three or four hours ago. At five the call to prayer came whistling through the night. there must be at least two mosques within a mile or two of the house. I had forgotten that I was coming to a predominantly Muslim country... If I ever wanted to live on a farm, that I've had enough of roosters crowing in the morning to wake me. I woke up here, today, at ten (six in mentor, eeesh) and wandered around to find water that I so desperately need. It's just sweat sweat sweat, although, I still smell fresh from last night's shower (most likely I'll ripen up when/if it gets less muggy). I was shocked to discover that my bread has sand in it, but no one else seemed to mind or even notice. It wasn't a big problem, so, like everything else, I just went with the flow.

By the way, they have the most beautiful birds flying around here, they could fit at least four in or five in the space that my fist takes up. Amazing. They are red, vibrant, and I think that I saw a few that were bordering on orange, that burns away into a black tail. Beautiful. Anyway, I'm sleepy and dizzy because of it. I'll write again when more important things occur.

Allah'u'Abha
Mendon

Posted by ndornbrook at December 3, 2003 4:05 PM